Steff Yotka: The last time Rick set something on fire at the Palais de Tokyo for the womenswear show Babel in Spring 2019, Nicole wrote a great review about the random timing of Christine Blasey Ford’s statement and how Rick understands femininity. Rick’s tough women get a lot of praise, but what do you think of Rick’s version of manhood?
Nicole Phelps: Without seeing the fireballs, I would have said that didn’t look like one of Rick’s more political statements. Just looking at the clothes seems to be more about beauty and the hedonistic pursuit of dressing.
Laird Borrelli-Persson: Are Rick’s Men Fragments of Who He Is? Is his vision inward or outward?
Laia Garcia-Furtado: I think his men are like the toughest soft guys. The clothes can be so severe and often even aggressive, but I think it takes a certain softness and vulnerability to put them on.
LBP: The question is perhaps not so much the (idealized) wearer, but the craft. That seems to be particularly evident this season as the construction is visible due to the fabric choices. Perhaps it’s not just – or mostly – an ideal body, but an ideal pattern that can be worn in different ways by different people. Rick can tailor and drape like it’s nobody’s business.
Tiziana Cardini: I also think that he has developed an incredible sense of color over the years.
LBP: Good point, Tiziana. It’s interesting to see how it’s applied to men’s clothing. When I think of Rick and colour, the first thing that comes to mind is womenswear, so it was nice to put that in a different context today.
TC: That’s true, but now it’s great that his menswear is getting more extravagant. Tyrone-esque…
LBP: Aside from the opening look, the clothes aren’t overly sexy. In fact, they redraw the body.
LGF: Yeah I just looked at the pics again and it felt like the first look was almost like a schematic…like “here’s the body” and the rest of the looks were “and here’s what I’m doing with it.” “.
Jose Criales-Unzueta: I think the reinterpretation of body proportions makes them sexy in a Rick Owens way. While there’s the scarcity, which I believe stems in large part from Tyrone, the tailoring informs a large part of what he finds attractive.
SM: Has everyone seen his excellent account of being inspired to go to Egypt? He confronts me with despair and eternity.
TC: Nice. Egyptian. pyramids. pharaohs. DESPAIR! ETERNITY! AFTERLIFE!
LBP: When we talk about Egyptian influence, silhouette is super important because Egyptian friezes were drawn in two dimensions. Personally, I didn’t get a sense of despair…
LGF: I think there is relief in the afterlife! Celebration!
LBP: I think there is a certain monumentality in some pieces.
TC: I think his aesthetic is RITUALISTIC.
Sarah Mower: When you sit there and watch him set bullets alight, it’s viscerally obvious that he’s confronting us with our inevitable demise. If you feel the fire radiating on your skin and worry that it might actually spill over to you… But I don’t mind him showing Rick rtw.
JCU: Nice to see what drkshdw could be alongside real RO ideas.
LBP: And in early culture, life and death are pretty much inseparable. Rituals are all about the transformation between ways of being, seasons, etc.
JKU: Yes! I think it’s important to always remember that Rick is pretty much his own little cult now! It’s ritualistic anyway. Whether intellectualized or seen as a more straightforward client-designer relationship… It was also a lot less dystopian than the last few seasons.
LBP: He’s happy! I think you can see that in the clothes.
LGF: I agree, the clothes show joy! Or at least “joy for Rick”.
JCU: I think fall was more of a spurt of ideas, and that was mostly some great Rick dresses. I like to take both!