Mimi Prober spring 2022 ready-to-wear collection

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Fashion has a bad relationship with time. It’s not just the three to six month lead in collections, but also how this future-oriented industry applies the label “new” or “young” to every brand (regardless of the age of the designer or the company) that has one reached a certain turning point of recognition. Mimi Prober is a case in point. Although she has “been into this fashion thing” as she puts it for a decade, it will be a new name for many visitors to In America: A Fashion Dictionary.

Prober is part of the nostalgia section of the exhibition, and that feeling has permeated the designer’s work since launching her ready-to-wear line, which builds on her previous work with historical clothing and textiles. For the spring, Prober happily evolved the line in a new direction, revealing other aspects of their talents and interests, but in a way that doesn’t alienate existing customers. If you will, this time her lace, petticoats, embroidery and smocks are going on tour.

Prober thought of time, the cycle of life, and her own roots as she created the line-up that not only marks her 10th year in fashion, but also the 50th anniversary of the return of spring. That was the name of a 1971 concert with the Grateful Dead, Ox and Riders of the Purple Sage, organized by their “hippie” father through his company Primo Productions. “As far as my philosophy is concerned, it was just the right time to continue this connection of family and home and meaning and past and preservation and history, but to make it very meaningful to me and hopefully inspire others,” said Prober. “It’s very personal; It’s about my father and his work in the music industry and how that inspired me. “

Prober abstracted the mermaid fairy figure from the Return of Spring concert poster and embroidered it onto a winged cape. The original poster art also appears on t-shirts. “As far as I know, it is at least one of the first vegetable-dyed screen prints on this scale,” says the designer. Authenticity and responsibility are woven into everything Prober does. The fabrics, she explained, “are all custom-made: hand-woven, hand-spun, hand-knitted, hand-crocheted.” In addition, the new bobbin lace is made by hand by a women’s guild in Kollam, India.

Prober’s entry into fashion was through vintage corset dresses, and she added one as a final look this season as a nod to her early days in the industry. She also presented her first ready-to-use corset top. A charmer with lacing in the front and floral hand embroidery made from plant-dyed yarn. Similar flowers are scattered on a romantic maxi dress.

Building on the rock and roll theme, Prober refers to two of her botanical dyes as Purple Haze and Tangerine Dream, and the looks take their names from musicians, Patti, Stevie, etc. The denim looks are unique pieces from her Atelier line (as well as the antique corset and lace finale look) and are made from reworked Levis jeans from the 1970s. “I want to make sure we use the authentic ones that matter and hopefully pass them on to future generations,” Prober said. “I think the world is really overwhelming and really scary. It seems to create things frivolously, but at the same time it is not; it’s really important. ”Art, music and, yes, modest blue jeans – these are things that carry and convey meanings over time.


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