“It’s so nice to be bringing the angels back to the City of Angels,” said Fiorucci designer Daniel Fletcher, reflecting on what it means to have the brand back in LA with a pop-up shop at Fred Segal, by the end of April, will debut the new spring collection “Desert Oasis”.
The installation is timed to coincide with the Coachella Valley Music & Festival taking place the weekends of April 8-10 and April 15-17 in Indio, California. Fletcher photographed the spring look book at Joshua Tree and the brand will be dressing part of the festival attendees.
Fletcher joined the famous Fiorucci brand in December 2019, shortly after appearing on the Netflix fashion competition show Next in Fashion.
He spent the pandemic months focusing on jersey-driven T-shirts and sweatshirts with the signature cherub motif “because that’s what everyone was buying at the time,” said the designer, who studied at Central Saint Martins in London. “It feels like we can finally expand the collection – there are dresses and shirts and lots of party stuff because Fiorucci is a party brand.”
Fletcher’s first experience with the popular ’80s label was seeing Fiorucci artworks in his fashion school library. “It was always on my mood boards and when they brought it back in 2017 I was really excited to see what they would do… They did a really good job bringing back the sweats and Ts and then they blew me around that fashion element again.” to inject.
“People love it for the history, but we also want to plan for the future,” he said, describing the rich Fiorucci archives, which include everything from matchboxes from the LA store to jeans painted by Keith Haring. “It’s unbelievable … but I want people in another 50 years to be like, ‘Look what they did in 2022.’ This collection has a lot of those ’70s pieces and an anything-goes-goes attitude, but also a love of the earth that was very important to Elio.”
Fletcher said he was inspired by a hand-painted sign from the archives that read “Love Earth & Nature” for Spring. “The archive is filled with artwork dedicated to the planet and Elio’s passion for protecting it,” he said.
The $75-$395 Desert Oasis collection features embroidered denim and seasonal jersey styles (including a store-exclusive tee) and silk shirts with playful palm tree prints. Sunbeams stretch across crocheted knits and soaring desert heat patterns across mini slip dresses. Bike shorts, bucket hats and crossbody canvas bags add to the genderless festival wardrobe vibe.
The Fiorucci brand was founded by Elio Fiorucci in Milan in 1967 with a focus on curve-hugging Lycra stretch denim (some call Fiorucci the inventor of skinny jeans) and t-shirts with whimsical graphics. His empire quickly went global as Fiorucci stores – some of the original lifestyle stores – opened in New York, London and LA.
The New York boutique, which opened in 1976, wasn’t just a shop, it was a meeting place and a pop culture hangout, where Andy Warhol would stop by daily for an espresso because he thought the coffee bar was the best in town, Fletcher said.
In the early 1980s, Maripol, the architect of Madonna’s image in the “Like A Virgin” days, was Fiorucci’s art director. Oliviero Toscani, who directed many of the groundbreaking Benetton commercials of the era, also shot for Fiorucci.
Veteran British clothing retailers Stephen and Janie Schaffer acquired Fiorucci from Edwin Jeans in 2015. Edwin, a division of Itochu, has been owned by the Italian brand since 1990. Recently, new investors came on board from Naga Brands Group.
Fiorucci has wholesaled Revolve, Kith, and others in the US, but the Fred Segal pop-up is the first direct concession it’s had. The brand opened a London flagship store on Brewer Street in 2017, offering personalization services, vintage goods and more.
Fiorucci has big plans for 2023, including a collaboration with White Mountaineering and a return to Milan with a new retail store.